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t1008.txt
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1994-09-08
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1008 WINDOWS, DOORS AND TRIM TIPS
Anatomy of a double-hung window
A double-hung window - the most common and complicated type - has a pair of sashes that
slide up and down. In any window, the sash is the framework into which glass panes are set.
Strips called muntins separate the panes. In older windows muntins are structural features -
on newer windows they may simply be decorative removable grills or absent entirely.
Jambs form the sides and top of the window opening. Concealed behind the side jambs on
older windows are heavy sash weights connected to the sashes with rope-and-pulley systems.
The weights provide a counterbalance that makes the sashes easier to move and holds them in
open positions. Rather than sash weights, newer windows use a revolving drum in the top
jamb or tubular torsion springs in the side jambs.
A series of stops attached to the jambs provides channels in which the sashes slide. Blind
stops are permanently attached to the outside edges of the jambs, but both a parting stop
between the sashes and an inside stop can be pried loose to remove the sashes.
A sash lock squeezes the sashes together, keeping the window securely closed and minimizing
drafts where the sashes meet.
Interior trim, also called casing, at the sides and top and an apron across the bottom cover any
gaps between jambs and walls.
The lower sash comes to rest behind a flat stool or interior sill - its outside counterpart, the
exterior sill, is sloped so water will run off.
Double-hung windows come as assembled units, except for the casing, apron and stool, which
are usually cut and fitted after the window is installed in the wall opening.
Replacing window sashes
Like a hole in your pocket, a drafty old window squanders energy dollars winter and summer.
You can sew up that hole with a replacement sash kit. It includes two new sashes and vinyl
jamb liners that install over the old jambs.
To remove the old sashes, gently pry off the inside stop, pull the bottom sash free and
disconnect the cords or chains that attach to the weights. Then remove the parting stop and
the top sash.
Since replacement sashes don't require weights and cords, remove the weights from pockets
behind the side jambs and pack the pockets with insulation. You gain access to the pockets via
narrow strips of wood screwed to the jambs. You may need to scrape away paint to locate the
screws that secure these pocket doors.
Next, nail brackets to the old jambs and clip spring-loaded jamb liners in place. Nail a new
stop to the top jamb and fit parting stops into the jamb liners.
Starting with the upper sash, slip metal pegs at the sides into the new vinyl tracks and tilt the
sash into place. Pushing the sash down locks the pegs into metal gliders on the track. The
lower sash goes in the same way.
The new vinyl jambs and the insulation in the old weight pockets make your new window
much more energy efficient - and when it's time to clean the windows, you can tilt them free
and wash both sides from indoors.
Installing bifold doors
Bifold doors provide better access to a closet than sliding doors, and they're not difficult to
install.
Begin by marking for the center of the new doors all the way around the jamb. Center the
new doors' guide track on the top jamb and attach it with screws. Also screw jamb brackets
to the bottoms of the side jambs.
Next, insert pivot posts into pre-drilled holes at the top and bottom of the door. Then, with
the bottom pivot set loosely in a jamb bracket, fit the top pivot into a bracket at the end of the
guide track. Slip the door's other top pin into the sliding guide.
Now eyeball along the jamb side of the door for plumb. You want the margin between the
edge of the door and the jamb to be about even. When you're happy with it, tighten down the
top pivot.
Make final vertical and horizontal adjustments by turning the adjusting wheels at the bottom
bracket and repositioning the top pivot.
Removing old moldings
Prying off old moldings without damaging the wall surface calls for patience and a few
special tricks. If a molding has been painted, first cut along its edge with a utility knife to
break the paint seal.
To work the molding loose from the wall, drive a broad knife behind it, then drive a putty
knife between the broad knife and molding. Next, work a pry bar between the knife blades and
- very gently - pry the molding away from the wall. Fit a wedge behind the molding, remove
the knives and pry bar, and continuing prying and wedging along the molding's length.
The idea is to pop loose all the nails holding the molding to the wall. Once you've done this,
remove the wedges and pull the nails. If you plan to reuse the molding, protect its surface with
one of the shims.